Fish diseases

The fish diseases are divided into two groups; Tropical and Coldwater. It is divided into two categories not because there is a distinction between them but because they apply more often to the class of fish under which they are listed. The suggested cures and symptoms apply to both classes. Obviously all nets, instruments, etc should be sterilized after use to prevent the spread of infection from the isolation tank.

Tropical diseases

White spot is the most common ailment, being simply a form of chill or fish influenza. When weakened by a sharp fall in water temperature the fish is unable to resist a tiny parasite that lodges on it, causing an irritation, a swelling visible as a tiny white spot the size of a pin point. These spots often appear first on the tail, next the fins and finally the body. If unchecked this disease will sweep through the tank as an epidemic.

Types of aquatic greens

Ambulia

Ludwigia

Myriophyllum

Hygrophila

Aquarium plants

Fish as pet!

Betta can be found in most of the pet stores. It does well in a small container but for a permanent home, a large goldfish bowl is good enough. The bowl is to be kept in a place where the temperature is stable and without direct sunlight. If taken care properly it lives up to two to three years old.

An aerated aquarium.

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How to eliminate hydra

The aquarium can be purified by raising the temperature to 100 degrees F for twenty to thirty minutes (no fish present) or by introducing Blue or Leeri Gourami fish which will eat the hydra when forced to do so by sheer hunger. Therefore, stop feeding them for a while. Some English water snails will also eat hydra, but they have the bad habit of eating plants as well.

Another way of eliminating hydra is to black out the tank entirely, leaving only a 2 in x 2 in gap on the side facing the light. Within a few hours all the hydra in the dark tank will have gathered on the 2 in x 2 in opening and can be easily wiped off with a sponge.

For the pond, one quarter of a grain of potassium permanganate can be added for each gallon of water. The dosage can be doubled if there is no fry. This should be left for two or three days and the water then gradually changed until half to two thirds of the original has been replaced. The fish need not be removed. Another alternative remedy for the hydra infected pond is ammonium sulphate added to the water at the rate of one teaspoonful to every ten gallons. This will destroy the enemies but not the fish.

More on water enemies

The dragon fly larva

It is similar to the Water Tiger except that it does not swim much but lies in wait for its prey. The victims are merely held by the pincers and are then destroyed by its hard mouth, which can do amazing damage even through the study scale protection of quite big fish.

Hydra

It is different from the two described earlier, being very much smaller and capable of harming only fry. Its presence is betrayed by a group of bunch of thread-like streamers or hairs hanging in the water; these are the tentacles. Each hydra is roughly 3/4 inch long, having about half a dozen tentacles spread out like a star fish. Since it invariably seems to multiply rapidly, ways have had to be found to remove the vast numbers other than by emptying and cleaning the pond or aquarium.

Water Enemies - The Water Tiger

For both tropical and coldwater fish, the great danger when catching live foods for a pond or aquarium or when procuring plants from untried sources is that the water enemies will be introduced as well. These are small aquatic insects which can kill or harm baby fish and in at least two instances even medium sized adult fish. The main water enemies are the Water Tiger, Dragon Fly larvae and Hydra.

The Water Tiger

It is a long and thin insect, shaped rather like a caterpillar, and has two vicious pincers with which it can hold its victim and through which it can suck its blood. It grows to 1 1/2 inches or more but probably its most dangerous size is half grown as it is then difficult to detect. A good swimmer, it can tackle and kill fish twice its own size.

Sealing a tank

The sealing compound of mastic is often specially made to remain soft for two months. If the glass of the empty aquarium gets shaken away from the metal frame, during a journey for example; the internal water pressure of 10 Ibs per square inch will tend to push the soft mastic into any gaps that may have been caused and so to re-seal a leak. Once the water has been put in, a leak that is no greater than a drip will stop of its own accord as the mastic is pushed into position gradually over twelve to forty eight hours, provided the rate of the leak does not increase.

An aquarium full of water should not be moved, or it will be seriously strained by the internal water pressure.